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Posted by on Sep 2, 2015 in Featured, Features, Gear Reviews, In gear we trust | 0 comments

How I built my trad rack

How I built my trad rack

By Teresa Wasiak I dated a guy quite a long time ago who “climbed.” He is the one who introduced me to climbing, which consisted of him and his best buddy setting up a top rope and getting a bunch of people (usually girls) together to come out and give it a try. I gave it a try and I was hooked. While we were dating, he kept talking about learning how to lead sport or trad someday but didn’t feel confident enough with his partner. While he was visiting family in Oregon, he hit a huge going out of business sale on gear and bought a bunch of stuff. I didn’t know what any of this was at the time but I remember the HUGE pieces of metal on his apartment living room floor. We eventually broke up, and I was more devastated about losing a climbing contact than a boyfriend. Who was I going to climb with!?!?! Eventually, I made plenty of new friends and eventually those...

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Posted by on Aug 26, 2015 in Featured, Features, Gear Reviews, In gear we trust | 0 comments

Trango Cinch and Squid: Intuitive, essential

Trango Cinch and Squid: Intuitive, essential

By Aimee Roseborrough My two favorite pieces of climbing gear by far are the Trango Cinch and Squid (and no, I’m not sponsored by Trango!)   I’ve been climbing for over 15 years, so I’ve had lots of gear experience.  When the Gri-Gri first entered the scene, I tried it, but I felt dissatisfied with it’s lead-belaying performance.  I always found it difficult to give slack quick enough for clipping in a safe manner.  The Cinch solves this problem by allowing the belayer to keep a hand on the brake side of the rope while feeding slack without requiring some contrived rope position.   It’s even easier than feeding slack with an ATC.  Misuse with the Cinch can be dangerous, so experience is essential.  You must keep your hand on the brake side of the rope when feeding slack. With the Cinch, this is easy to do in a natural hand position.    I also would never be caught without the Squid. The Squid is a specialized piece of...

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Posted by on Aug 19, 2015 in Features, Gear Reviews, In gear we trust | 0 comments

La Sportiva Mythos: Good grip, all-day comfort

La Sportiva Mythos: Good grip, all-day comfort

I’m a moderate-grade rock climber who climbs mostly outside on routes with very few “balance on a quarter” moves. I like cracks, chimneys, slabs, off-widths, and I get them all on nearly every alpine route we find. So when I needed a new pair of shoes, I picked La Sportiva Mythos. I bought a new pair of climbing shoes at REI during the annual membership sale using my dividend. When I first got into rock climbing, the store in Minnesota had only one option in women’s shoes – that starter pair that also were for rent at the university climbing gym. When buying my second pair, I was in a different state, and the choices were numerous. I’d been climbing for a few years and I knew I needed something that wouldn’t stink so bad and wouldn’t cause distracting pain during long days on multi-pitch routes. I also knew I didn’t need a super aggressive shoe. I chose La Sportiva’s Mythos – a gorgeous suede leather shoe with Vibram rubber. The climbing gear guy...

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